The Soul of Seoul
Living and traveling in Korea
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Latest posts
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Sungkyunkwan and Munmyo Shrine: Seoul’s Joseon Royal Academy
Last Updated on October 28, 2026 Sungkyunkwan (성균관) was the highest national academy of the Joseon Dynasty, and Munmyo (문묘) is the Confucian shrine that stands in front of it. Founded in 1398 and tucked just inside the main gate of Sungkyunkwan University in Jongno, it’s free to…
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Tage Retinal Review: PDRN Pore Cream vs. Volufiline Stick
Last Updated on October 28, 2026 One of the first things you’ll learn when diving into Korean beauty is how important it is to protect your skin from the sun, and not just on those fun beach days. That’s why brands like Tage, a Korean skincare brand solely focused on sun…
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Arirang Meaning: Korea’s Folk Song and Its Many Versions
Last Updated on October 14, 2026 Arirang is Korea’s best-known folk song, often called the country’s unofficial national anthem. Honestly, whenever I try to remember the national anthem, Arirang always comes out first. And every time I hear it, it’s the same song, so boy was I…
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What Is Beolcho? Experiencing Korea’s Ancestral Grave-Cleaning Tradition
Last Updated on October 9, 2026 This year, I joined my husband, father-in-law, and daughter to visit our family’s ancestral graves, and I finally got to see what beolcho (벌초) is all about. Living in Jeju and enjoying a daily walk, I see graves all over. You can find these little…
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Korean Poop Culture: Why Koreans Are Obsessed With Poop
Last Updated on September 29, 2026 There’s an obsession with poop in Korea that I’ve just never understood so I decided to do a deep dive into the obsession to learn myself and I’m going to share all of my findings because it’s honestly fascinating. If you have kids, read this…
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How To Get Home After Midnight In Seoul: Night Buses, Taxis & The Last Subway
Last Updated on September 18, 2026 I recently saw a video of a traveler standing outside in Seoul at 5:00 in the morning saying, “What they don’t tell you about clubbing in Seoul is that you won’t be able to get home after.” She couldn’t get Uber to work and seemed upset as she…
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Ring the Bosingak Bell: One of Seoul’s Most Overlooked Experiences
Last Updated on September 13, 2026 Most people, locals and tourists alike, walk right past Bosingak Belfry (보신각 터) in downtown Seoul and don’t even realize they can do more than just take a photo in front of a beautiful traditional pavilion. Sitting in the middle of busy Jongno,…
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A Guide to Gwangju’s Art Scene: Museums, Studios & Public Art Beyond the Biennale
Last Updated on October 14, 2026 Gwangju is a city in Korea with an immensely important history when it comes to democracy in South Korea, but when I sat down to write the Gwangju travel guide, I realized that there’s one side of the city for some travelers, and there’s another…
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Gwangju Travel Guide: Democracy, Art & Kimchi in One of Korea’s Most Overlooked Cities
Last Updated on September 11, 2026 You might think of Seoul for palaces, Busan for beaches, and Jeju for nature, but what comes to mind when you think of Gwangju? For a lot of international visitors, the answer is probably not much, and that’s exactly why I think Gwangju…
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The 5.18 Democratization Movement Archives In Gwangju: A Complete Visitor Guide To Korea’s Democracy Museum
Last Updated on September 11, 2026 I came to Korea 20 years ago, and over those years I had heard pieces of the story of May 18. I knew about the Gwangju Democratization Movement, called the Gwangju Uprising more often in those early years after I’d arrived, had read bits of the…